Beadlock Install How To
A friend of mine in our club first bought a set of the DIY beadlocks and I was so impressed by the value and of course we are the types who would rather do things ourselves rather than be pretenders who just bolt crap on. That said, I finally broke over after taking one of my 38×12.50×15 TSL’s off the rim for the third time. I chose to have a custom design made (The Poorboy Offroad Logo) and to have the outer rings powder coated orange to go along with my paint scheme. It’s hard to exactly see how this works in your head if you’ve never seen a beadlock in person but trust me, it works. You will recieve 4 inner rings (unpainted, in my case versus the outer orange rings), 4 outer rings and if you are running a larger tire or any Super Swamper as I understand it, you will recieve or should order a set of anti-coning rings. Using your stripped rims, start by using either a burr bit on a die grinder or simply use a grinding wheel and trim the burrs off the inside of the outer lip of your rim. The unpainted rings will set inside this lip. After cleaning them up, then place your inner rings inside the outer bead and weld them in place. Make sure you get a complete airtight weld around this area. Don’t worry if your welds aren’t pretty, but they must be airtight. Next grind down your weld bead so that the bead is flattened and level, but not flush with the inner ring. Next, you will need to install your anti-coning rings (ACR’s from now on). The ACR’s will be three spacers with six half moon spots in them for the bots to fit through. Take three of the ACR’s and use two bolts to align them with the holes in the inner ring, then tighten them up so that they will hold the spacers in place for you. I also slot the other four bolts to check clearance. Weld the ends, then four spots along the inside of the ACR’s away from the tire bead. Then weld 3-5 spots vertical to weld the spacers together. I then used a wire brush to remove excess fluxing from the weld areas and used a grinder to smooth any sharp edges or spatter off the ring. Before you paint this part, be sure to wipe everything down with a degreaser of your choice, I used laquer thinner, as the steel components from DIY have the usual oil residue common to steel stock and will fisheye even the hardiest paints. Next I used a can of Semi-flat Krylon to paint my rims and the beadlock surfaces. Use your own judgement here, but Krylon is cheap, easy to touch up and quick. After the paint is dry, you can reinstall the tire over the front bead and place the tire over the inner ring and aligning the bead along the ACR’s. Place your outer ring over the inner ring and begin installing your hardware. Hardware requirements will depend on your tire size and style. The maximum length is 2″. You will need much of that length to set the outer ring. I then used a wrench and a 3/8 drive impact to do a X pattern of tightening of the bolts. Andrew says to torque them to about 20 lb/ft. Next I sat the tire/rim combo on a 5-gallon bucket with the beadlock up. This allows the tire to lay on the inner bead, forming a semi-seat on the bead. Next I used an air chuck to air up the tire and seat the bead. I left the tire in my garage overnight with 26 PSI in it and behold, this morning, I still had 26 PSI in it. The last thing I have to do on these is to install an angled tire valve (that I don’t have yet) in each rim to get the valve away from the bolts and the inner ring. Hope this helps. Only other thing I can tell is the hardware required, 128 2″x3/8″x16 TPI Grade 8 Zinc Plated bolts, 128 Grade 8, 3/8″ 16 TPI Zinc Plated Nylock nuts and 256 USS Hardened Zing Plated 3/8″ flat washers. All my hardware came from Fastenal, but just because gather hardware from 4-5 different places means you get 4-5 different colors of zinc plating.
Matthew Daniel Poorboy Offroad